Where to See Atacama Desert Wildlife around San Pedro de Atacama

As I planned my trip to the Atacama Desert, the idea of high-altitude desert wildlife fascinated me. Here was the driest desert in the world, climbing from an already elevated plateau high into the Andes. It was bound to be inhabited by some uniquely adapted animals.

And that is partly true. The animals that do live here — the vicuña, the viscacha, the Andean cat (!) — are all very unique. But there are fewer species of large animals living in the Atacama Desert than I expected. At least those you can actually encounter without a specialised expedition.

Viscacha is one of the animals in the Atacama desert — Southern viscacha on the altiplano

On the other hand, I completely did not expect to find wetlands teeming with many species of waterbirds. And I was visiting in winter, when many of the migratory species had already left.

Chilean flamingo in Chaxa lagoon, San Pedro de Atacama — Chilean flamingo in Chaxa lagoon

Much of this unexpected abundance is found higher in the Andes, on the Altiplano, where the high-altitude landscape is dominated by the Andean Puna ecosystem. In fact, you’ll notice that many animal names include the word puna. Named after the dry, high-elevation montane grassland found at elevations of about 3,200–3,400 meters.

Where to See Wild Animals in the Atacama Desert?

Vicunas are ubiqutous representatives of Atacama desert wildlife — Vicunas at Miñiques Lagoon

If you are particularly keen to spot wildlife in the Atacama, I would recommend joining a wildlife watching tour with Juan from On Safari Atacama. I did the tour with Juan on my last afternoon in Atacama, and I saw more wildlife that afternoon than I did in my 5 days in the desert. And not only do you see more wildlife, but you can also stay and observe the animals rather than drive past them and watch them through the car window.

The tour is advertised as semi-private; the number of people is probably limited by the number of seats in Juan’s jeep. But the perk of visiting in early winter (late May) was that I was the only person on my tour! The tour was easily my favourite 4 hours in the desert. We visited places that general tours do not go to, and, because we were visiting in the afternoon, when all the tour groups had left the area, it felt like we were absolutely alone on the altiplano.

But even without the tour, you are likely to spot animals in the Atacama Desert. In this guide, I’ll tell you where to look.

Vicuña

Atacama desert wildlife - vicuna — Vicuna on the altiplano

The dainty relatives of the llamas, vicuñas (Lama vicugna) are ubiquitous at the high altitudes in the Atacama desert. They live at altitudes of 3,200 to 4,800 meters (10,500–15,700 ft), so if you are planning to visit the altiplano, say the Red Rocks or the Taitio Geyser, you are very likely to spot them.

Vicuñas produce the finest wool in the world, and they were nearly hunted to extinction because of it. In Incan times, only royalty were permitted to wear garments made from vicuña wool, but today, these adorable camelids are protected by law and are a major conservation success story in South America.

In terms of spotting vicuñas, you can see them anywhere above 3,500 meters. My best sightings were at the Miñiques Lagoon, where we witnessed a herd of several dozen animals, and on the wildlife safari with Juan, where we saw animals at a very close range and in the most dramatic landscapes.

Guanaco in Torres del Paine National Park in winter

The image above is one of my favourite encounters with a vicuña that happened on my wildlife safari with Juan. It was a single individual grazing in the shadow of the towering snow-covered Andean peaks. Typically, this is the scene you encounter with guanacos in Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia. I was chuffed to spot that vicuña channelling the Patagonian guanaco look.

Guanaco

Guanacos are the larger relatives of vicuñas, and in the Atacama, you’ll find them at the lower altitudes. Coming from Patagonia, I expected guanacos to be quite common, but I’ve only spotted a single individual along the road to Rainbow Valley. So the image above is actually from Patagonia.

Guanacos and vicuñas are the only two wild camelids in South America; they are the ancestors of the domesticated llamas and alpacas, respectively. Llamas and alpacas, both domesticated by the Incas, do not occur in the wild. You might, however, spot llamas grazing at the lower altitudes – these are the communal flocks tended by the shepherds.

Southern Viscacha

Southern viscachas (Lagidium viscacia) are some of the cutest denizens of the Atacama Desert. These rabbit-looking rodents live in small family groups in the rocky areas.

Unlike their Argentine cousins, the plains viscachas, southern viscachas occur at elevations of about 700 to 5,100 meters (2,300 to 16,700 ft), but I have only seen them on the altiplano – above 4,000 meters.

There is a colony living at the Red Rocks car park, and several known colonies lie along the road to the Taitio geyser. Most tour buses slow down as they pass the colonies to give you a chance to see the viscachas. If you are exploring independently, keep in mind that it’s not allowed to get out of the car outside of designated areas, so be careful.

Culpeo Fox

The Culpeo (Lycalopex culpaeus), or Andean fox, is probably the carnivore you are most likely to encounter in the Atacama Desert. Despite its name, the Culpeo is not a true fox and is more closely related to wolves. It is the second-largest canid in South America after the Maned wolf.

I had read that a Culpeo could sometimes be encountered around the visitor centre at Tatio Geysers, so when I visited on a tour, I loitered in the area for as long as I could afterwards. While everyone else took their photos with the giant imitation Culpeo that forms part of the welcome sign, I kept looking for the real thing.

I could barely believe my luck when a fox suddenly appeared right in the middle of all the people milling about. He was sleek, but with an incredibly thick coat. Unfazed by us, he started weaving his way along the fence. Once everyone realised he was there, the fox immediately acquired a sizable following. This worked in my favour — half my tour bus was now watching the fox too.

Still, every second I stayed with the fox felt like borrowed time. Eventually, our tour guide had to tap me on the shoulder and call me back to the van.

Donkey

You’ll often encounter the humble donkey along the roads leading out of San Pedro de Atacama. These are not wild animals in the conventional sense – you won’t find them in any guides to Atacama Desert wildlife, but they have become part of the desert landscape. Descended from animals brought by Spanish colonists, donkeys have adapted astonishingly well to the arid highlands. They can go long periods without water and graze on sparse desert vegetation.

You’ll see them in pairs or small groups, usually near villages or oases, and occasionally wandering freely across salt flats and dry valleys. Locally known as “unemployed donkeys”, they are hardy survivors – a reminder of how humans and animals have shaped each other’s existence in this extreme environment.

Andean Flamingo

It’s totally crazy that you can see three different species of flamingos in the Atacama Desert! And yet, flamingos are among the most iconic animals of the Atacama. These birds thrive in the mineral-rich Chaxa Lagoon, where they feed on microscopic algae and brine shrimp. It feels almost surreal to see these elegant pink birds feeding in mirror-like lagoons surrounded by nothing but salt crusts and volcanic peaks.

The Andean flamingo (Phoenicoparrus andinus) is the rarest of the three flamingo species found here and is considered vulnerable. Despite being globally rare, the Andean flamingo is actually the most abundant flamingo at Laguna Chaxa.

It is the largest flamingo in the Andes, and it can be recognised by its pale pink plumage and yellow legs. It is the only flamingo species with yellow legs. Another distinctive feature is the bill – it is mostly yellow with a black tip and a strong downward curve.

Chilean Flamingo

The Chilean flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis) is the most widespread and easiest to recognise, thanks to its vivid coral-pink plumage and grey legs with pink knees. They are most easily distinguished from the Andean and James’s flamingos by not having black feathers covering their rump. Their rump is a rich coral colour instead.

Unlike the more reclusive Andean flamingo, the Chilean species is often seen in larger flocks, sometimes hundreds strong.

During my visit to Chaxa Lagoon, several Chilean flamingos were feeding close to shore, giving me a chance to see them properly up close: their light-yellow eyes, oddly shaped beaks, beautiful pink feathers and those incredibly long legs.

James Flamingo

Also known as the Puna flamingo (Phoenicoparrus jamesi), this delicate species was once thought to be extinct until a population was rediscovered in the 1950s.

It’s smaller and paler than the other two flamingo species, with striking red skin around the eyes and a bright yellow bill with a black tip. James’s flamingos often mix with Andean flamingos in the same lagoons, so these facial markings are particularly useful for telling them apart.

James’s flamingos occur at Chaxa Lagoon, although I didn’t manage to identify any during my visit. There may well have been some among the more distant birds, but none that I could confidently distinguish.

I did, however, see James’s flamingos later on the Altiplano, at one of those unexpected lagoons that seem particularly improbable in such an arid landscape. The birds were quite distant, but my guide had a spotting scope, so we could see their beautiful faces surprisingly well.

Puna Plover

Another bird you can often spot at Chaxa lagoon is the Puna plover (Charadrius alticola) – a dainty shorebird that lives on the windswept edges of Andean lakes and salt pans. It’s a master of camouflage, with sandy-grey plumage that blends perfectly with the pale desert ground.

I spotted a few plovers while watching the flamingos. These tiny guys are dwarfed by the stately flamingos, but they give themselves away by making quick, darting runs across the mudflats before freezing motionless — a typical plover behaviour used to catch insects and avoid predators.

Water birds

Machuca wetland in the Atacama desert — Semi-frozen Machuca wetland

While I knew all about the flamingos in the Atacama desert, what I didn’t expect to see were the wetlands, like the Machuca wetland, or the Volcan Putana wetland, teaming with water birds. Even more surprising was the fact that they were mostly frozen! I visited in late May, and the average night temperature was around- 10 degrees. There were fewer birds in the wetlands than in the warmer months, but it was still many more than I expected to see.

Andean Coot

The Andean coot (Fulica ardesiaca) is a striking, charcoal-grey waterbird with a red and yellow frontal shield above its beak. It’s common in many of the lagoons near San Pedro de Atacama, where you’ll often see it paddling along the shorelines or diving for aquatic plants. However, I’ve seen them only in the altiplano lagoons.

What’s fascinating is how this species builds floating nests made of reeds anchored to submerged vegetation – an ingenious adaptation to a landscape that can freeze overnight and boil under the midday sun.

Horned Coot

One of the strangest and most impressive birds of the Atacama highlands is the horned coot (Fulica cornuta). This rare species has a curious black “horn” or caruncle above its beak. But what’s truly remarkable about these birds is their nest-building skills.

During the breeding season, these striking birds gather in colonies to create an enormous communal nest — a true feat of avian engineering. Rather than nesting on the shore, they prefer to build about 40 metres out in the shallow waters of their high-altitude Andean lakes.

Working together, the coots transport and pile up hundreds of pebbles to form a sturdy artificial island that rises right to the water’s surface. They then cover it with soft algae to create a comfortable nesting platform. Some of these pebble mounds can weigh up to 1.5 tons, and the birds refurbish and reuse them year after year.

Giant Coot

The aptly named giant coot (Fulica gigantea) is one of the heaviest flying birds in the Andes — though many individuals actually lose the ability to fly as adults! Instead, they rely on their size and strong legs to escape predators. Like horned coots, they build massive nests, sometimes over a meter high, which they reuse year after year. In fact, most of the Giant coots I’ve seen in Atacama were running around with beakfuls of grass, busy renovating their nests.

The easiest way to identify a Giant coot, beyond its size, is its bright red beak that stands out sharply against the cobalt blue of the lagoons.

Andean Goose

Another bird I didn’t expect to see on the Altiplano was the Andean goose (Chloephaga melanoptera). Yet they are the first birds you notice on a wetland. They stand out with their white body, black wings, and pink legs.

Unlike most geese, it’s almost completely vegetarian, grazing on short alpine grasses. You’ll often see them in pairs or family groups, keeping a watchful eye over the barren plains. Their loud honking calls sound entirely out of place in such a dry and silent place.

Crested Duck

Scanning the further reaches of the wetland, I also spotted a Crested duck (Lophonetta specularioides). It looks rather unassuming from afar, but up close you’ll see its soft, mottled plumage and, as the name suggests, a charming little crest of feathers on its head. It’s a tough, high-altitude duck, able to survive in freezing conditions where few other birds dare to live.

Puna Teal

The last water bird to surprise me on the Altiplano was a Puna teal (Spatula puna). A pair of them, actually. These ducks often float serenely in pairs or small groups, their colours mirrored perfectly in the still water. Watching them against the backdrop of snow-dusted volcanoes and pink flamingos felt decidedly surreal.

Andean Gull

Puna gull - unexpected widllife in the Atacama Desert

Another unexpected sight in the dry high-altitude desert is the Andean gull (Chroicocephalus serranus). The Andes lie fairly close to the Chilean coast, but seeing a sea gull in the barren, windswept landscape of the altiplano is quite surreal. Unlike the gulls you might know from seaside towns, Andean gulls breed around salty high-altitude lakes and wetlands, nesting on open ground and feeding on insects, small fish, and even the eggs of other birds.

I was so unprepared for the gull’s arrival at our lunch stop just outside the Taitio Geyser field that I had to take a photo of it with my phone, the only camera I had within easy reach at the time.

Black-hooded Sierra Finch

The one bird I was hoping to see in Atacama is the Sierra finch. And I managed to spot three Black-hooded sierra finches (Phrygilus atriceps): a pair in the Valley of the Moon and another male in Machuca Village.

The two birds at the Moon Valley were a particularly unexpected surprise. One landed right next to the trail. It seemed to be completely unbothered by us, until it realised that I was trying to photograph it!

It was the male bird that we saw first: bright yellow body with a jet-black head and throat. But once I followed him towards a small dried bush, I noticed a much more toned-down female. She was greyish-olive and not as easy to see.

Puna Miner

The Puna miner (Geositta punensis) is a small, sandy-colored bird from the ovenbird family. It’s perfectly camouflaged against the dusty ground, where it scurries around searching for insects. It’s named for its habit of nesting in burrows – often taking over holes abandoned by other animals.

You’ll probably hear its thin, trilling call before you see it, as it flits between rocks or stands upright surveying its territory like a miniature sentinel of the altiplano. The miner in the image above was spotted at the Red Rocks car park.

Black-winged Ground Dove

Another subtle beauty is the Black-winged ground dove (Metriopelia melanoptera). These small doves have a delicate lavender-grey body and dark wings that flash dramatically in flight.

Juan from On Safari Atacama was quite excited to see these birds, and I caught his excitement trying to spot a pair of them walking daintily along a rocky slope.

Plate’s Lizard

Atacama desert wildlife - Plate's lizzard — Plates lizard at Yerbas Buenas Petroglyphs

While ducks and flamingos may look out of place in the desert, lizards blend right in. And you are very likely to spot the Plate’s lizard (Liolaemus platei) if you visit Yerbas Buenas Petroglyphs.

It is a medium-sized, sun-loving lizard with a rusty-patterned back that helps it blend into the stony ground. These guys like sunbaking on the rocks along the main path and often dart across it when disturbed. So slow down and keep an eye on the rocks as you walk along.

Final Thoughts on Atacama Desert Wildlife

If you are particularly keen to spot wildlife in the Atacama, I would recommend joining a wildlife-watching tour with Juan from On Safari Atacama. I joined Juan on my last afternoon in the Atacama, and I saw more wildlife that afternoon than I did in my five days in the desert.

That’s not to say I didn’t see wildlife on the regular sightseeing tours. I saw plenty of vicuñas on my trips to the Tatio Geysers and the Altiplano lagoons. I spotted a distant viscacha at the Red Rocks car park and a few more sunbathing on the rocks above the road as we drove past. I was sitting on the opposite side of the van, so it wasn’t much of a sighting. The only Culpeo I saw was on my Tatio Geysers tour.

Wildlife-spotting opportunities are unpredictable, especially in landscapes this vast. The difference with Juan was that I could actually observe the animals rather than drive past them. We lingered beside a group of vicuñas, watching their faces reflected in the icy blue water as they browsed at the water’s edge. I could perch on a rock below a group of sunbathing viscachas and simply watch them do their thing.

Before the drive back to San Pedro, Juan insisted that I walk about a kilometre by myself along a particularly lively wetland. You can only truly feel the landscape around you when you are alone. By then the sun was getting low, turning the light golden, while the enormous volcanoes towered over the wetland. After five days of mostly seeing the Atacama through the windows of tour vans, walking through it alone felt very different.