Best Place to See Little Kingfisher and Chestnut Rail in Darwin

On my recent trip to Darwin, the capital city of Australia’s Northern Territory, I discovered a true hidden gem – Buffalo Creek near Lee Point. This creek is a bird-watching hotspot like no other. It is home to some of the most rarely seen birds in the region – Chestnut rails and Little kingfishers, as well as Azure kingfishers, Sacred and Collared kingfishers, Buff-banded rails, and the list goes on.

The reason Buffalo Creek is a hidden gem is that to see the birds you need to visit at low tide so that the banks are exposed and the birds come out to feast on aquatic vertebrates hiding in the mud. But at low tide the creek is too shallow for most boats.

Little kingfisher in Darwin — Little kingfisher

Enter the sharp-eyed Christopher Spooner and his compact little boat. Christopher has been cruising the creek for close to a year, and most days, he is able to find the much-coveted Chestnut rails and Little kingfishers. So, if you are a keen twitcher or simply enjoy seeing birds up close, Buffalo Creek cruise is one of the best things to do in Darwin.

During my visit, the low tide coincided with the last few hours of daylight, so we enjoyed the golden hour as we cruised along. I have to say that I am not a twitcher by any stretch of the imagination, but I love seeing birds. And I do have my favourite species, with kingfishers high among them. And Buffalo Creek is a kingfisher paradise. I have never seen this many kingfishers of different species anywhere else.

Before we even started the cruise, I spotted a Jabiru on Lee Point Beach! I’ve never thought of Jabirus as a beach-dwelling bird, but Christopher told me this particular stork hangs out on the beach all the time, taking every opportunity to steal the local fishermen’s catch.

Sacred kingfisher in Darwin's Buffalo creek — Sacred kingfisher

Once we cast off, we started seeing birds straight away. A Common Greenshank, and a few Common sandpipers wading in the shallows, a Teresian (or Collared) kingfisher sitting on a dead tree.

As I mentioned, the speciality of Buffalo creek is the Chestnut rail. This secretive, large rail can only be seen in and near mangroves in northern Australia. One of the interesting things about this species is that it is the only species in its genus (Eulabeornis), making it evolutionary unique. Not surprisingly, it is the bird that serious birders want to see the most.

Chestnut rail in Darwin's Buffalo creek — Chestnut rail

Before long, we spotted our first rail. It was sitting on a tree branch of all places. Christopher swung the boat around, and we followed the rail as it strutted along the bank, fairly unconcerned with our presence.

As wonderful as the rail was, I was very keen on kingfishers. And kingfishers we found. Half a dozen Azure kingfishers, several Sacred kingfishers and finally, the tiny Little kingfisher. And these guys are truly little. I mean, all kingfishers are small, but at 11.5 to 13 cm long, the Little kingfisher is the world’s second smallest (after the African dwarf kingfisher). In Australia, they occur only in northern Queensland and coastal Northern Territory.

Little Kingfisher

Latin name: Ceyx pusillus
Conservation status: Least Concern
Size: 12-13 cm

A vibrant blue and white kingfisher found in coastal northern Australia, typically in mangroves, swamps, and forest streams. A solitary and shy bird, it perches low near water, hunting small fish, insects, and crustaceans by diving swiftly. Though widespread in its range, Little kingfisher is rarely seen due to its elusive nature and preference for dense vegetation.

Christoper’s approach is to position the boat pointing towards the bird and cut the engine, allowing the boat to slowly and silently drift ever closer. And with a bird as special and as small as the Little kingfisher you really want to be close.

I was pleasantly surprised by how nonchalant the Little kingfishers are. Every tiny kingfisher we spotted allowed us to stay and watch as it darted for fish into the creek and returned to the same perch to eat it. It felt like being in a nature documentary.

Boat cruises are generally good for getting close to animals. The water acts as a natural barrier between us, and the animals tend to be more relaxed about an approaching boat than they are about approaching cars. It works with jaguars in the Pantanal and with primates and birds in Borneo. And it worked magically with rails and kingfishers on Buffalo Creek.

Azure kingfisher on Buffalo creek in Darwin — Azure kingfisher

We’ve had very up-close-and-personal encounters with Little, Azure and even a Sacred kingfisher, who tend to be the most skittish.

More Chestnut rails followed and a few Buff-banded rails, which I had only ever seen in the semi-arid landscape of Scotia Sanctuary in NSW when one maverick individual found his way to our bird bath.

Chestnut Rail

Latin name: Eulabeornis castaneoventris
Conservation status: Least Concern
Size: 44-52 cm

A large, elusive bird native to northern Australia’s mangrove forests and coastal wetlands, this secretive rail is often heard more than seen, emitting loud calls at dawn and dusk. It forages in mud and shallow water to feed on crustaceans, small fish, and insects.

While watching another Little kingfisher catch one tiny fish after another, we spotted a striking black and white Bar-breasted honeyeater and several Shining flycatchers.

As we turned around to cruise back to the boat ramp, we came across a Striated heron practising her yoga moves on a branch overhanging the creek.

By the time we returned to the boat ramp, the sun was beginning to set, bathing the landscape in the golden light. Our timing couldn’t have been better to get the best of all worlds.

Final thoughts on the Buffalo Creek birdwatching cruise

All in all, the cruise was easily one of the best wildlife watching experiences I had in Darwin. In about 2.5hrs we saw half a dozen Chestnut rails and as many Little kingfishers. Seeing the tiny, adorable kingfishers up close was the highlight for me, with two species of rails as a close second. So, if you are keen to see Chestnut rails, Little kingfishers and many other birds up close, look up Christopher Spooner in the Northern Territory Birders Facebook group.

Common sandpiper in Darwin, Buffalo creek

Common Greenshank at Buffalo Creek, Darwin

Bar-breasted honeyeater at Buffalo creek, Darwin

And if you are looking for more bird watching adventures from Darwin, check out my trip report on spotting Hooded parrots in Pine Creek, another adventure I took with Christopher.