Sydney sprawls over one of the most beautiful natural harbours in the world. With hundreds of kilometres of coastal walks and over 70 sandy beaches framed by the endless expanse of the Pacific Ocean, Sydney is often thought of as a summer destination. Yet the arrival of the colder months means the start of whale watching in Sydney – the season for wildlife tours on the ocean.
The whale watching season in Sydney lasts from late May to early November. During this time, thousands of Humpback whales cruise past the city on their epic migration between Antarctica and the tropical waters of the Great Barrier Reef.
I have been watching whales in Sydney for many years, starting with university ecology field trips. And here is my guide to everything you need to know about whale watching in Sydney based on my experience.
About Humpback Whale Migration
Each year, more than 40,000 Humpback whales cruise past Sydney on their 10,000-kilometer migration between their feeding grounds in Antarctica and breeding grounds in the warm tropical waters of the Great Barrier Reef.
However, the numbers have not always been this high. Humpback whales were almost hunted to extinction in the 19th and 20th centuries. By 1978, when whale hunting was finally banned in Australia, there were about 300 whales left in the East Coast migratory population.
The hunting ban was the key turning point for the whales. Over the next four decades, the humpbacks made an epic comeback from the brink of extinction. The experts believe that the current population has reached its pre-exploitation numbers, and it keeps growing at about 11 percent each year.
Best Time for Whale Watching in Sydney
From mid-May to August, humpback whales begin cruising past Sydney on their northern migration from Antarctica. Humpbacks spend their summer feeding on krill in the freezing waters of Antarctica.
Protected by a thick layer of fat, known as blubber, the whales can easily withstand the subzero temperatures of the Southern Ocean. But they can’t reproduce in the cold. Newborn humpbacks don’t have enough blubber to survive in Antarctica. So, the whales travel 5,000 kilometres to the Great Barrier Reef to give birth to their young.
Born in tropical waters and weighing about two tonnes, the calves consume up to 600 litres of mother’s milk each day. And humpback whale milk contains a whopping 60 percent fat.
The newborn calves need all the nutrition they can get. Their main job is to fatten up quickly for their first journey to Antarctica in a few months’ time.
Occasionally, you can see very young calves on the northern migration if their mothers happened to give birth before reaching their breeding grounds.
From mid-August to November, whales start to travel back to Antarctica. Although it is not uncommon to see an occasional struggler still heading north in late August. Many female whales have given birth in the tropical waters off the coast of Queensland and are taking their new calves on their first journey to Antarctica.
If you are lucky, you may witness a mother teaching her calf to breach. The lesson usually consists of a few breaches by the mother, followed by a series of breaches by the practising calf.
Which Whales Can You See in Sydney?
Sydney whale watching season is the season of Humpback whale migration. But there are other whale species you can see off Sydney. Southern Right whales are occasionally seen on whale watching cruises, as well as Common and Bottlenose dolphins.
For a more unusual adventure, you could cruise much further into the open ocean on a Pelagic tour (more on this below), where you can see whales that don’t come as close to the shore as the Humpbacks.
The open ocean will give you a chance to spot Minke whales, Dwarf Minke whales, False Killer whales, Melon-headed Whales and other rarities. Killer whales are also occasionally seen, once every few years.
Whale Watching Cruises in Sydney
The best way to see the whales is, of course, in their element – on the water. Nothing compares to watching a 40-ton animal jump out of the water within a few meters from you. This is why whale-watching in Sydney is one of the most popular tourist activities.
During the season, whale-watching boats leave Circular Quay and Darling Harbour several times a day. The cruises range in duration from 2 to 4 hours, later usually including breakfast or lunch. Depending on your preferences, the best cruises are those that spend more time on the water looking for whales, like this 3-hour cruise that leaves either from Circular Quay or Darling Harbour. It’s a great thing to do in Sydney with teenagers or even young kids – whales seem to respond well to an excited crowd.
Whether you join the cruise at Circular Quay or in Darling Harbour, first, you’ll cruise through Sydney Harbour and then out into the open ocean. You’ll spend the time cruising up or down the coastline looking for whales. Once the skipper locates the whales, you’ll spend some time cruising alongside them at a safe distance.
Pelagic Cruises
For serious enthusiasts, there is something else entirely – a full day adventure to Brown’s Mountain – an underwater mound 15 nautical miles off the Sydney coast. Operated by Sydney Pelagic & Nature Watching Tours, these cruises run once a month, departing from Rose Bay or Mosman. If you are interested in participating, book a few months in advance
These tours don’t concentrate on the migrating humpbacks but head out further into the open ocean, where it is possible to see different species of whales. On these pelagic trips, I have seen Dwarf Minke whales and false killer whales, as well as Common and Bottlenose dolphins and Sea lions, not to mention a number of species of Albatross and other pelagic birds.
Observable Humpback Whale Behavior
As the whales cruise along, they put on quite a show. Humpbacks are often referred to as the acrobats of the ocean because they engage in a number of behaviours that can be observed above the surface. They have quite a number of tricks up their sleeves.
Blow
As you cruise into the open ocean, start scanning the surface for whales’ trademark blows.
On average, adult Humpback whales go down for a 4-7- minute dive and then come up for air again for about 6-8 breaths. With each breath, the whale exhales first by forcefully expelling air from its lungs and clearing away any water from the top of its blowhole. The resulting stream of air and steam shoots up to 4 metres in the air. When a whale surfaces close to the boat you will hear the sound of its blow.
Breach
The most dramatic of humpbacks behaviours is the breach, where the whale launches itself into the air, often becoming completely airborne.
The experts are still uncertain what motivates 40-tonne whales to leap out of the water, though a number of explanations have been offered. The most widely accepted theory is that a breach is a form of communication. And considering the amount of disturbance a breach causes underwater, it seems like an effective way to get your message across.
Another theory is that whales breach to dislodge parasites from their skin or even to shed some of the excess blubber that the whales put on during their summer-long feeding buffet in Antarctica.
Spy Hopping
Whales are curious animals, and occasionally, they pop their heads out of the water to have a look at what’s happening on the surface. Interestingly, during spy-hopping, whales don’t use their tail flukes to stay upright. Instead, they use their pectoral fins to tread water, much like humans do.
On a boat, the skipper would often encourage whale watchers to make some noise when a whale surfaces nearby to communicate to the animal that we are as curious about it as it is curious about us.
Pectoral Slap
Quite often, humpbacks lift their giant pectoral fins out of the water and then forcefully slap them on the surface.
Humpbacks are highly social animals, and experts believe that female humpbacks can use pec slapping as a flirting technique. The amorously inclined females also release a scent, which, together with the sound of the pectoral slap, sends a message to the nearby males that she is ready for some attention.
On the southern migration, when the females are leading their young calves on their first journey to Antarctica, the mothers teach pectoral slapping to their young. It is an adorable sight to witness
Tail Slap
Sometimes, you’ll see a whale raise its tail and forcefully slap the water, resulting in a fantastic loud splash. Tail slapping is considered to be mainly a sign of defensive aggression, when a whale wants to deter a predator, for example.
But it can also be an expression of play. We once spent some time with a mother and her subadult calf. And while mum was entirely calm and collected, the youngster kept breaching, tail slapping and rolling in the water.
Fluke-Up Dive
After every few breaths at the surface, humpbacks take a dive for four to eight minutes. And as the whale goes into a deeper, longer dive, it often lifts its tail fluke out of the water, exposing the underside.
Scientists often use the unique patterns of scars and barnacles on the whales’ flukes to identify individual animals.
Rolling in the Water
Another thing humpbacks like to do is to roll around just below the surface. When they do that, their pectoral fins and tail flukes rise above the surface. I don’t believe there is a functional explanation for this behaviour. The whale is simply having fun and enjoying himself.
Know Before You Go on a Whale Watching Cruise
To get the most out of your time on the ocean, you will want to make sure that you are as comfortable as you can possibly be. And with the unpredictable weather and sea conditions, there are three main things to consider:
- Seasickness tablets: There is nothing worse than getting seasick and missing all the action. If you suffer from seasickness, don’t forget to take the tablets, like Travacalm, before you board the cruise.
- Stay Warm: While Sydney winters can be surprisingly warm and sunny, it is usually quite windy out in the open ocean, so it is best to bring a warm jacket on a cruise with you, especially if you prefer sitting at the front of the boat.
- Sunscreen: While you pull on your winter woollies, don’t forget to put some sunscreen on your face. It may not feel like it when you are on board, but a few hours of exposure to the blazing Australian sun can be quite unkind to your skin.
Whale Watching in Sydney from Land
There are also plenty of whale watching spots in Sydney for observing the animals from land. There are a number of vantage points along the coast, many of them lie along spectacular coastal walks.
All of these spots are reachable by public transport. I give details for each of the spots below, and the best way to find out the schedules of trains, buses, and ferries in Sydney is on the Transport NSW website. You could also download their TripView app if you need to find out the schedules on the go.
Royal National Park
My all-time favourite coastal walk in Sydney is Bundeena to Marley beach track. It follows the dramatic cliffs of the Illawarra coastline and provides endless opportunities to spot whales. Another good spot is the lookout at Wattamolla.
Whichever spot you choose, spend some time scanning the ocean for the whales’ blow, and you will be surprised by how close they come to the shore.
Getting there: To reach the coastline of Royal National Park, catch a train to Cronulla and then a ferry to Bundeena. From Bundeena ferry wharf, it’s a short walk to the National Park. Alternatively, you could drive to Wattamolla and take a stunning coastal walk to Curracurrong Falls.
Cape Solander, Kurnell
Located within the Kamay Botany Bay National Park, Cape Solander is probably the most popular whale-watching spot in Sydney. This is where Sydney’s official whale watching count takes place each year. You could say it’s the official lookout for whale watching in Sydney.
There are information boards at the lookout with all kinds of information on humpback whales and their migration. And if you prefer to watch for whales on the go, take the clifftop track to Cape Bailey Lighthouse.
Getting there: Catch a train to Cronulla and then local bus 987 to Kurnell. Then it is a 2.8km scenic walk from the bus stop to the lookout.
Fairfax Lookout, North Head
The North Head is one of the headlands that mark the boundary between Sydney Harbour and the open ocean (the other headland is, unsurprisingly, the South Head). It towers 80 meters above the ocean and you can see the whales coming for miles.
Lying within the North Head Sanctuary, the Fairfax lookout can be reached by the short and easy Fairfax walk through coastal shrubland. The views from the top sweep over the dramatic bluff of the South Head and the endless expanse of the ocean.
Getting there: Catch a ferry to Manly and then bus 135 from Manly Wharf to North Head.
Barrenjoey Lighthouse Headland, Palm Beach
About 50 kilometres further north, Barrenjoey Headland in Kur-rin-gai Chase National Park is home to the northern beaches’ most famous landmark – the Barrenjoey lighthouse.
The walk to the lighthouse along the Smugglers track is a little steep, but once you reach the top, the sweeping views over Palm Beach, Central Coast and the Pacific Ocean are more than worth it.
Getting there: Take B1 bus from Wynyard
Gap Bluff, South Head
Lying opposite the North Head, the South Head is the second sentinel guarding the entrance to Sydney Harbor. The headland can be explored along a well-used footpath from Watson Bay.
The best whale watching spot on the headland is the Gap Bluff – the rocky bluff with panoramic views of the North Head, northern coastline and even the city.
Getting there: Take a ferry to Watsons Bay.
Humpback whale facts (Australian migratory population)
- Size: Adults – up to 18m; Calves – 4m to 5m at birth
- Weight: Adults: up to 50 tonnes; Calves: 2 tonnes at birth
- Gestation: 11 to 11.5 months
- Pectoral fin: Up to 5 meters long and weighs 1 tonne
- Cruising speed: 8km/h
- Blow pattern: Small and bushy, up to 4m
- Feeding grounds: the Southern Ocean and Antarctica
- Breeding grounds: Tropical Queensland & the Great Barrier Reef
- Whale watching season in Sydney: Late May to Early November
- Migration length: 10,000 km return – it is the longest mammalian migration on earth
- Population size: 30,000 individuals
- Population growth: 10% per year
Sydney, of course, is not the only place in Australia to see Humpbacks in Australia. Port Stephens on NSW Central Coast is among the top 10 whale watching destinations in Australia. In Queensland, Hervey Bay whale watching is considered one of the finest wildlife experiences in the country. You can also spot whales along Tasmania’s east coast.
More Wildlife Tours From Sydney
- Pelagic Wildlife Tour from Sydney: Whales & Albatrosses
- Fireflies in the Blue Mountains – Secrets of Cathedral Reserve
- Nelson Bay Dolphin Cruise & Sand Dunes Tour from Sydney
- Walking with Kangaroo Valley Wombats – Tour Review
- Best of Whale Watching in Sydney – a Local’s Guide
- Glow Worm Tour in the Blue Mountains Reveiw
I love Whale watching. I never thought of doing it in Sydney, I’ve only seen them off the coast of Queensland. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for such a comprehensive guide!